Wardrobe Interior Layout Ideas That Maximise Space

Two wardrobes with the same outside measurements can hold very different amounts. The difference is almost always the inside: where the rails sit, how the shelves are spaced and whether the awkward corners and top shelf are doing any work. This guide covers practical wardrobe interior layout ideas, with typical sizes to plan around, so you can fit more into the space you already have.

If you are still deciding on the wardrobe itself, start with our guide on how to order bespoke wardrobes. This article picks up once you know the width and want to plan what goes inside.

Work Out Your Hanging Space First

Hanging space uses the most room, so plan it before anything else. Measure the longest garment you own, from the top of the hanger to the hem, then add a few centimetres so it clears the floor or the shelf below.

As a rough guide, the space you need depends on what you hang:

Long hanging: Dresses, coats and trousers hung full length usually need around 1,500 to 1,700mm. This is the only layout that suits very long garments, so reserve one section for it if you own any.

Short hanging: Shirts, jackets, blouses and trousers folded over the hanger need around 900 to 1,000mm.

These are starting points. Check them against your own clothes before the rail positions are fixed.

Use Double Hanging to Almost Double the Capacity

If most of your wardrobe is shirts, jackets and tops, double hanging is the biggest single space gain available. Two short rails, one above the other, give you roughly twice the hanging length in the same width.

In a typical 2,000mm-plus interior, the upper rail sits near the top and the lower rail roughly halfway down, leaving 900 to 1,000mm for each tier. The lower tier is also easy to reach, which suits children and anyone who finds a high rail awkward.

A common and effective layout is to split the width. Give one section to double hanging and one to long hanging, so you are not forced to choose between them.

Give Rails the Depth and Support They Need

Clothes on hangers sit side-on to the door, so rails need enough depth to stop sleeves brushing the doors when they close. Around 500 to 600mm of internal depth is the usual guide for comfortable hanging. A shallower cabinet can work in a narrow room, but you may need front-facing hanging, which holds fewer garments.

Rails also sag if the span is too long, particularly with heavy coats. Where a run is wide, add a centre support or divide it into shorter sections.

Add Drawers at a Comfortable Height

Drawers keep folded clothes, underwear and accessories contained, and they free the shelves above for things that really suit shelves. Place them where you do not need to stoop or stretch, usually between knee and shoulder height.

Think about load as well as size. A deep drawer full of knitwear is heavy, so choose runners that suit the weight. Our guides on drawer runner weight ratings and soft close drawer runners explain what to look for.

Plan Shelves Around What You Fold

Adjustable shelves let the layout change as your needs do. Folded knitwear and T-shirts usually need 300 to 350mm between shelves, so stacks stay tidy and you can see what is there. Bags and bedding need more.

Keep shelf widths sensible. Long spans of thin board bend under weight over time, so either keep the span under around 800mm or use thicker board. Our guide to MFC vs MDF explains how thickness affects shelf strength.

Make Room for Shoes

Shoes take up more floor than most people expect. The simplest option is a low shelf with a gap of around 150 to 250mm for flat shoes and trainers, or a deeper gap for boots. Angled shoe shelves display more pairs in less width. Pull-out racks keep shoes hidden and reachable, but they take a section of full-height width.

Fix the Corner and the Top Shelf

Corners and high shelves are the two places most wardrobes waste space.

In a corner wardrobe, a standard straight rail leaves a dead zone where the two runs meet. A Wardrobe Corner Rail is a 90 degree curved rail that carries hanging space round the corner, so the whole run stays usable. Rail ends are sold separately.

The top shelf above head height is hard to reach, so give it jobs that do not need daily access: seasonal clothes, spare bedding, luggage and storage boxes. Keep everyday items between knee and shoulder height.

Light the Inside So You Can See It

Space you cannot see is space you do not use. Good internal lighting makes the back of a deep wardrobe and the lower tier of a double hang usable. Our wardrobe LED lighting kit guide covers placement, and the Wardrobe Lighting Kit comes with tape, driver and motion sensor in one pack.

Three Layouts to Borrow

Narrow alcove, around 1,000mm wide: Use one double hanging section and a column of drawers or shelves beside it. Full-height hanging would waste most of the width.

Standard double wardrobe, around 1,800mm wide: Split into three. One section for long hanging, one for double hanging, and one for drawers with shelves above. Add a shoe shelf under the long hanging.

Corner wardrobe: Use a curved corner rail for continuous hanging, with shelves and drawers on the straight runs either side.

Next Steps

Once you have a layout in mind, write down the rail heights, drawer sizes and shelf positions so they can be specified clearly. If you would like help planning a fitted wardrobe, see our made to measure fitted furniture guide or our bespoke design and fitting service. You can also call us on 0161 465 4007.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. How high should a wardrobe hanging rail be?
For long hanging, the rail usually sits near the top of the cabinet, leaving around 1,500 to 1,700mm below it for dresses and coats. For double hanging, each tier needs roughly 900 to 1,000mm.

2. How much space do I need for double hanging?
You need an interior of roughly 1,900 to 2,000mm or more, giving around 900 to 1,000mm for each tier. Shorter wardrobes can still fit two rails for shirts, but the lower tier will have less room.

3. How deep should a wardrobe be for hanging clothes?
Around 500 to 600mm of internal depth lets hangers sit side-on without sleeves brushing the doors. A shallower wardrobe works in a narrow room, but clothes may need to hang facing forward.

4. Is it better to have drawers or shelves inside a wardrobe?
Drawers keep small and loose items contained, while shelves suit bulky folded items. Most layouts work best with both: drawers at a comfortable mid-height and adjustable shelves above or beside the hanging space.

5. How do I use the corner of a wardrobe properly?
A curved corner rail carries hanging space around the join, so the corner is not left empty. Pair it with shelves or drawers on the straight runs on either side.

6. How wide can a wardrobe shelf be before it sags?
Thin board can bend over wide spans when loaded. Keeping shelves under around 800mm, or using thicker board with a centre support, helps them stay flat under folded clothes.

— Saqib Wateeb